Five flavors of the mysterious Russian soul, beautiful girls, Pushkin and Siberia.
What’s good for Russians, it is incomprehensible for a foreigner, but it is – at least – curious. No wonder why famous designers and the most sophisticated perfumers always come for more to archetypes of Russia, trying to decode the very mysterious Russian soul and always in different ways. To some of them, Russia is a clingy dome of cathedral, poetic heritage and for others, Russia is a dark leathery.
Founders of Italian Masque fragrance house, Riccardo Tedeschi, and Alessandro Brun met the Russian tea culture a few years ago in a snowy St. Petersburg. Even in 1855, in his essays book “Frigate Pallada”, Ivan Goncharov wrote: “All the other nations simply are not able to enjoy a good tea: it is necessary to know what means the cup of tea when you come (…) from thirty-degree frost into a warm room and sit next to the samovar”. With the Italians in Russia, everything happened that way and the Russian tea ceremony with all the tradition of the XIX century was appreciated, creating a stunning flavor of Russian Tea.
It discovers notes of black tea, as expected, with the slight smell of smoke, a skin soaked in birch tar, as in the old days, and disclosed with raspberries. Because in the pre-revolutionary villages, tea parties without a raspberry jam in winter is impossible to imagine. The Russian tea slip mint, cistus, and immortality is a special place in composition to get a flavor of, apparently, the Russian soul.
The aroma of Mugler Cuir Impertinent from the collection Les Exceptions is, however, a novelty. The contrast of dark leathery and a bright flash of star anise associated Jean-Christophe Herault with horseback riding through the endless Siberia, giving the skin audacity of modern sound and sensual scent.
Fragrance brand Arquiste dedicated it’s own Russian flavor to February 8, 1837. In that frosty morning, the duel between Alexandr Pushkin and Georges-Charles de Heeckeren d’Anthès occurred. Alexandr smell is winter: it smells like a pine forest with a bright chord violets and leathery notes are like neroli – maximum concentration and composure.
YSL’s vision of Russia is not so dramatic. Magnificient Blossom caught our attention mainly by its design. A floral-chypre fragrance with notes of jasmine, saffron and Amyris packed in a beautiful box decorated with outlines of miracle domes of Orthodox architecture – the Cathedral of St. Basil. Contours repeatedly reflect on the bottle, creating a game of light and optical illusions.
Creative Director of Amouage, Christopher Chong, is fascinated by Russian girls. He create Sunshine women which is only available in Russia. In the history of the brand, it is the first fragrance created for women. It discovers, of course, the notes of alcohol – a liqueur of blackcurrant, juniper patchouli and white tobacco. Lots of jasmine and osmanthus make an interesting base. Interesting fact: the flavor costs $580, and $290 of the price is donated to finance a fund to improve the guide dogs for the blind and disabled people.